The processing of textile fabrics involves thousands of chemicals, many of which are harmful to both humans and the environment. In addition, chemicals are exposed to the load of chemicals every day, e.g. through medicines, cosmetics, nutrition and the environment. There is not yet sufficient information on the long-term and synergistic effects of these compounds. Not all chemicals used in the manufacture of textiles are necessary and not all enter the body. However, if the manufacturer uses harmful chemicals in the manufacture of textiles, it is difficult for consumers to protect themselves from them. Chemicals increase the ease of use and durability of textiles with various finishing methods. In addition to various cleaning procedures, the fabric is subjected to mould-proof treatments, antistatic treatments, biological protection, adding ironing/cracking/softness, fire retardant, water repellent and wadding-free treatments. For example, during long journeys and storage, textiles are susceptible to microbes, mold, fungi and various insects. For example, organic chlorine, tin and chromium compounds, which are highly harmful to humans and the environment, are used for biological protection.The EU Chemicals Agency maintains a list of harmful chemicals used in textiles. The REACH Regulation entered into force on 1 June 2007 and concerns the registration, evaluation, authorisation and restriction of chemicals. The regulation sets a strict target for the textile sector, as it requires ensuring the safety of all chemicals, greater transparency and finding more environmentally friendly innovations.The cleanliness, health and safety of Lapland’s nature are important values that are used in many sectors in marketing and branding. Arctic quality has also started scientifically to verify natural resources as well as services and tourism. Lapland needs new innovations and technology to develop. However, when it comes to technological innovation, few people think about textiles. For example, ICT or renewable energy solutions have overshadowed textiles.Future Bio-Arctic Design (F.BAD) creates non-toxic and natural smart textile prototypes from natural materials, involving active Arctic plants and compounds. The aim of the project is to reduce the use of chemicals harmful to the environment, animals and humans in the textile industry and to reduce chemical loads. The project is looking for compounds and fibres from nature (plants, trees) that could replace the harmful and hazardous chemicals currently used. The potential of plant extracts and fibres as organic mould inhibitors, UV-protectors or mosquito repellent becomes significant in project applications. For example, textiles suitable to control mosquitoes and pests already exist but use permethrin which is extremely dangerous for the environment, fish and certain mammals. This project focuses on non-toxic methods and compounds. At the same time, new material and product blankets for the textile and clothing sector in the Arctic region will be created, as well as the development of Lapland’s research, knowledge and innovation hubs based on regional strengths. The aim is to make Future Bio-Arctic Design co-operation an internationally interesting research sector. At the heart of the F.BAD project, i.e. combining natural active substances and their material applications with textile design, the properties of multilayered fabrics and related material research and product development are at the heart of the F.BAD project. Textiles are intelligent or interactive when they react in some way to their environment. The study on the properties of materials focuses on the ecological properties of materials and plants from northern nature and on the effects of plant extracts and fibres. Lappish textiles, crafts and art companies bring their own materials to the project for testing and weaving, making textile prototype samples. At the same time, companies are familiar with the industrial jacquard weaving technology at the University of Lapland and K&H Annala.Future Bio-Arctic Design (F.BAD) is a new interdisciplinary cooperation in Lapland that creates new expertise and innovations in Lapland by combining knowledge of plant physiology, chemistry and biochemistry of the Natural Resources Institute of Natural Resources, management of extraction and separation techniques, expertise in natural resources and technology at the University of Lapland, and research in the Faculty of Arts, textiles and clothing design and industrial design of the University of Lapland into an internationally interesting and significant entity.
